at Dries Van Noten feathers were used to romanticize the brand’s Fall Winter 2013 collection, here are some select looks that utilized the light and pleasing embellishment
Alberta Ferretti Fall Winter 2013 Milan Fashion Week
Opened, Sasha Luss – Closed, Elizabeth Erm
Authenticity and familiarity were the aims of this collection from Alberta Ferretti. There was something a bit simplistic but without shying away from Ferretti’s trademark romantic details.
A few standout trends included a tendency towards shades of blue, black and white, traditional tartan, the use of rich velvet silks, and a mixing of bright jewel tones. The combination of which marked a standout collection from Ferretti, a departure from the wholly sequined looks from spring, and a hint of fresh modernism that’s sure to be trending come Fall.
Backstage, blue lace – look 13 on Kate Bogucharskaia and deep navy fur – look 14 on Irina Nikolaeva
Blue – a color trend on the runway, looks from bright to midnight ; look 23 on Lisa Verberght, look 13 on Kate Bogucharskaia, look 14 on Irina Nikolaeva, look 19 on Katya Riabynikina, look 20 on Marte Mei Van Haaster, look 22 on Fei Fei Sun, look 39 on Agne Konciute, look 21 on Grace Mahary
Look 14, a fur coat in a rich blue on Irina Nikolavea
Look 22 a historical looking blue jacket with floral embellishment on Fei Fei Sun
Sasha Luss opened in a monochrome look, white blouse tied with a black ribbon, long black skirt
There was an air of simplicity but the black and white was anything but basic ; look 1 on Sasha Luss, look 6 on Jamily Wernke Meurer, look 3 on Nastya Zhidkikh, look 41 on Mackenzie drazan, look 5 on Kremi Otahliyska, look 43 on Elisabeth Erm
Black and white looks backstage on Sasha Luss, Elisabeth Erm and Nastya Z
Elisabeth Erm closed the show in look 43 – a return to the black and white simplicity from the start of show – black and white ribbon at waist, ruffles, sheer fabrics, and beautifully tiered skirt
Tartan checks backstage look 15 on Julia Nobis and 16 on Caroline Brasch Nielsen
Another influential look ; tartan check – look 15 on Julia Nobis, look 38 on Esther Heesch, look 18 on Maartje Verhoef, look 16 on Caroline Brasch Nielsen
Detail look 16 on Caroline Brasch Nielsen
Detail look 19 on Katya Riabynikina in a bright blue velvet dress with pockets and floral embellishments
Fabric trends ; silk velvet – look 36 on Kremi Otashliyska, look 33 Daphne Velghe, look 32 on Jamily Wernke Meurer, look 21 on Grace Mahary, look 19 on Katya Riabynikina, look 10 on Mackenzie Drazan
Backstage look 33 on Daphne Velghe – deep violet velvet l/s column dress
Backstage – Jewel Tone looks on Clarice, Nastya and Juliana
Detail look 24 on Clarice Vitkauskas – bright purple short dress with long sleeves, smart pockets, purple floral embroidery
Color trend – jewel tones ; look 30 on Tilda Lindstam, look 31 on Emma Oak, look 29 on Dauphine McKee, look 26 on Juliana Schurig, look 24 on Clarice Vitkauskas, look 28 on Irina Kravchenko, look 25 on Nastya Kusakina
Detail look 25 on Nastya Kusakina – Chartreuse mini dress with embellished pockets
Notable models; Sasha Luss, Elizabeth Erm, Magdalena Jasek, Julia Nobis, Caroline Brasch Nielsen, Tilda Lindstam
Marc by Marc Jacobs
Fall Winter 2013
Forties meets Seventies nostalgic glamour by way of classic preppy looks,
colorful prints, and superstar-worthy satin.
The look was late seventies [borderline 80s] business-like with a bit of Antonio Lopez flawlessness. An altogether hit from the multi-talented designer. Models who made an appearance on the runway included Catherine McNeil, Sigrid Agren, Cara Delevingne, Ruby Aldridge, Daphne Groenveld and Nadja Bender.
The Beauty Look
Glam crimson lips by Dick Page [Shiseido’s artistic director of makeup]
and seventies disheveled curls by hair-icon Guido Palau
Curls on Nastya and Cara backstage
Bright red lips topped off the charismatic look
Look 2 – Prints
Look 13, Look 35, Look 11, Look 1, Look 40, Look 30, Look 6, Look 36
Details of a leafy dress and Vanessa Axente’s retro-rouge opener
Ladylike fall prints backstage
Look 3 – Fall Satin
Red lips and midnight blue satin on Bette Franke
Look 45, Look 41, Look 52, Look 51, Look 49
Femme Fatale ; Altuzarra Fall Winter 2013
inspired by Altuzarra’s muse – the ingenious Carine Roitfeld, this collection picked up on her her love for fur and leather and looking powerful and sexy on a regular basis. Manon Leloup opened the show in a woman-in-charge worthy suit with padded hips and leather shoulders.
Dresses were spliced with zips left undone to reveal shear under-skirts
Accessorizing motorcycle jackets in black leather, fur mittens in black and white made an impact. The resulting look was something of a strung-out, post modern Cruella de Vil.
A beauty look that was almost heroin-chic topped off the rock and roll worthy runway looks inspired by cool paradigms Patti Smith and Kate Moss.
Makeup artist Tom Pecheux described the collection as “fucked up french ladies going shopping on the Avenue Montaigne” which hit the nail right on the head. In order to create the messy smokey eye he used MAC’s Fall Forecast Eye Palette. Hairstylist Paul Hanlon called the look ‘stringy’ emphasizing the grunge aspect of Altuzarra’s vision.
Tilda Lindstam in an embellished sweater at Lim’s Show
3.1 Phillip Lim Fall 2013’s Biker Babes
The girl to fit Phillip Lim’s Fall 2013 look was not without edge. The it-designer’s winter manifesto comprehensively took on the downtown-cool look . His inspiration was the ‘biker’ subculture, more specifically the thorny girlfriends of such bad-boys. The look felt a bit ‘Kate Moss’ and was represented in the collection by patched-up denim, lots of leather jackets, shearling and in your face embellishments worn by stony-faced models Caroline Brasch Nielsen and Tilda Lindstam. As far of accessories went the leather gaiter-boots in brown and black completed the tough-girl look. This persona is someone who fashion-fans will surely want to be come fall.
”Clothing suited for the needs and speed of the concrete jungle. A military attitude filtered through a feminine sensibility. Girls that dress like boys. Marni Winter Edition 2013 is urban and tough.”
This season’s essentials took influence from menswear — the double breasted blazer and coat; slouchy trousers; the parka; the duffle-coat. Sportswear by way of functionality is highlighted with utilitarian detail: a scarf-hood; deep pockets. The zip-up anorak, an urban warrior’s uniform for pre-fall.
A photographer who shoots mainly in black and white, darker tones were prevalent in Hedi Slimaine’s first menswear collection for the newly re-branded Saint Laurent. Reflective of his aesthetic and always on the edge taste, black was the main color story on the brand’s runway for the fall.
All photos Saint Laurent Menswear F/W 13.14
Trending for Pre-fall 2013 – City Slickers, Sleek black looks
spotted at various pre-season presentations
all Pre-Fall 2013 photos from style.com & vogue.it